Day 4, Thursday 16 April 1998, Treben to Bukowa - Walked from Treben to Bukowa. Hard to determine whether the village is still in the same location as it was in 1945. Bukowa should have been 4 kilometers from Zwodau and now somehow it is 10. The land here is being strip mined. Large unsightly pits for miles. My achilles tendon is swollen and painful. The new sneakers. We eat in a small restaurant in Franzensbad. No one understands any German or English. Finally, a Czech diplomat who speaks fluent French is enlisted to help us order dinner. At the hotel that evening the concierge is kind enough to get me a bucket of ice. My feet are in bad shape. In "The Reawakening" Primo Levi reproduces this conversation between himself and his Greek traveling companion just after their liberation from Auschwitz..: "...he asked me: 'How old are you?' 'Twenty-five,' I replied. 'What do you?' 'I'm a chemist.' 'Then you're a fool,' he said calmly. 'A man who has no shoes is a fool.' He was a great Greek. Few times in my life, before or after, have I felt such concrete wisdom weigh upon me. There was little to say in reply. The validity of the argument was manifest, plain: the two shapeless pieces of trash on my feet, and the two shining marvels on his."






16 April 1998 - The Thai Army formally announced the death of Pol Pot. According to their report Pol Pot had died of a heart attack the day before in his jungle hideout. The Cambodian Army was said to believe these reports, which were also coming from the Khmer Rouge, but foreign diplomats remained skeptical.


Helmbrechts Walk, 1998-2003
Day 4, Thursday 16 April 1998, Treben to Bukowa -
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